Podkastlar tarixi

Sakkiz alpinist Everest tog'ida halok bo'ladi

Sakkiz alpinist Everest tog'ida halok bo'ladi

1996 yil 10 mayda bo'ron paytida Everest tog'ida sakkiz alpinist halok bo'ldi. O'sha yili cho'qqiga chiqishga harakat qilgan muallif Jon Krakauer voqea haqida eng ko'p sotilgan kitob yozgan. Yupqa havoga, 1997 yilda nashr etilgan. 1996 yil bahorida Everestda ko'tarilish mavsumida jami 15 kishi halok bo'lgan. 1980-2002 yillar mobaynida urinish paytida 91 alpinist halok bo'lgan.

Sir Edmund Xillari va Tenzing Norgay 1953 yilda dunyoning eng baland tog'i bo'lgan Everest cho'qqisiga chiqqan birinchi erkaklar bo'lishdi. Garchi ko'tarilish nihoyatda qiyin va xavfli bo'lsa-da, 1990-yillarning o'rtalariga kelib texnologiya hatto o'rta darajadagi darajaga ko'tarildi. alpinistlar tajribali gidlar yordamida urinish qilishlari mumkin edi. 1996 yilda misli ko'rilmagan 17 ta ekspeditsiya - yuzlab alpinistlar Himoloy cho'qqisini zabt etishga harakat qilishdi. Ulardan biri Sandy Pittman edi, u faqat tajribali alpinist.

10 may kuni falokat yuz berdi, chunki to'rt xil ekspeditsiya cho'qqiga chiqishga harakat qildi. Gid Anatoli Boukreev erta tongda o'z jamoasini tepaga olib chiqdi, Rob Xoll va Skott Fisher jamoalari ortda qoldi. To'satdan kuchli bo'ron ko'tarilganda, alpinistlar qiyin ahvolda qolib ketishdi. Hatto Everest faxriylari bo'lgan Xoll va Fischer kabi kuchli va tajribali alpinistlar ham cho'qqidan past masofalarda kurasha olishardi. Bukreev, go'yoki, ularni qutqarish uchun yaxshiroq holatda bo'lishi uchun, mijozlarisiz, eng yaqin lagerga tushdi. (O'z kitobida Krakauer bu harakatni qattiq tanqid qilgan. Bukreev Krakauerning hikoya versiyasiga qarshi chiqdi. Ko'tarilish, 1997 yilda nashr etilgan.)

Xoll va Fisher o'z mijozlari bilan qolishdi, lekin davom etayotgan bo'ron kislorod zaxiralari tugashi bilan barchani o'limga olib keldi. Garchi texnologiya Rob Xollga Yangi Zelandiyadagi rafiqasi bilan sun'iy yo'ldosh telefon orqali gaplashishga ruxsat bergan bo'lsa -da, lagerga qaytolmagan sakkiz alpinistni, shu jumladan Xollni ham, Fisherni ham qutqarish uchun hech narsa qilinmadi. Pittman ozgina muzlab qolishi bilan tirik qoldi. Krakauer fojia uchun tajribasiz alpinistlar va ularni boshqarishga rozi bo'lgan gidlarni katta pul evaziga aybladi.

Yana to'qson sakkiz alpinist 1996 yil bahorida Everest cho'qqisiga chiqdi.

KO'PROQ O'QING: Everest tog'i haqida bilishingiz kerak bo'lgan 7 ta narsa


Everest tog'i

Everest - Yerdagi eng baland joy. Uning tarixi, u erda yashaydigan va toqqa chiqmoqchi bo'lgan odamlar haqida bilib oling.

Antropologiya, tabiatni muhofaza qilish, Yershunoslik, Geologiya, Geografiya, Inson Geografiyasi, Fizik Geografiya

Everest tog'i Snowdrift

Everest tog'i - Himoloy tog'larining eng balandi va 8,849 metr (29,032 fut) balandlikda - Yerning eng baland nuqtasi hisoblanadi.

National Geographic tasvirlar to'plamidan olingan, Barri Bishopning surati

Everest tog'i - Himoloy tog 'tizmasining cho'qqisi. U Nepal va Xitoyning avtonom viloyati Tibet o'rtasida joylashgan. 8,849 metr (29,032 fut) balandlikda u Yerning eng baland nuqtasi hisoblanadi. XIX asrda tog'ga Hindistonning sobiq bosh tadqiqotchisi Jorj Everest nomi berilgan. Tibetcha ism - Chomolungma, ya'ni "Dunyoning ona ma'budasi" degan ma'noni anglatadi. & Rdquo Nepal nomi - Sagarmatha, u har xil ma'noga ega.

Birinchi marta Everestga ko'tarilgan odamlar Edmund Xillari (Yangi Zelandiyadan kelgan alpinist) va uning tibetlik gid Tenzing Norgay edi. Ular 1953 yilda toqqa chiqishgan va rekordni birga ushlab turishgan. Everest va rsquos balandligi haqidagi birinchi yozuvlar ancha oldinroq, 1856 yilda paydo bo'lgan. Britaniyalik tadqiqotchilar Everestni Hindiston yarim orolining Buyuk Trigonometrik Tadqiqotida dunyodagi eng baland cho'qqisi deb qayd etishgan.

Himoloy tog'lari qadimdan vodiylarda yashovchi tub guruhlarning vatani bo'lgan. Ulardan eng mashhurlari Sherpa xalqidir. "LdquoSherpa & rdquo" so'zi ko'pincha tog 'qo'llanmasi ma'nosida ishlatiladi, garchi u aslida etnik guruhga tegishli bo'lsa. Sherpa tog'larga chiqish bo'yicha qimmatli tajribaga ega va ular boshqa alpinistlarga berishi mumkin. Sherpas va rsquo logistika yordami va bilimisiz Everestga ko'tarilishning ko'p qismi imkonsiz bo'lar edi. Biroq, ularning turmush tarzi Everest alpinistlariga yordam berishdan boshqa narsa emas. An'anaga ko'ra, ularning turmush tarzi dehqonchilik, chorvachilik va savdodan iborat edi. Va ular yil bo'yi baland balandlikda yashaganlari uchun kislorodning past darajasiga o'rganib qolganlar.

Everestga chiqish toqqa chiquvchilar uchun mashhur ekspeditsiyaga aylandi. Biroq, bu xavfli tashabbus. Everestga chiqish uchun boshqa joylarda alpinizm tajribasi, shuningdek, sog'lig'i, asbob -uskunalari va o'qitilgan nepallik gid sertifikati talab qilinadi. Tog'dagi qor va muz ko'chkilar kabi o'lik xavf tug'diradi va ob -havo sharoiti tufayli toqqa chiqish mavsumi cheklangan. Ammo, ehtimol, eng katta xavf balandlikdir. Aksariyat alpinistlar balandlik va kislorodning past darajasiga o'rganmagan va ular olib kelingan kislorodga tayanadilar. Shuning uchun ham Everestdagi 8000 metr balandlikdagi maydonni "ldquodeath zonasi" deb atashadi. & Rdquo Bu mintaqada uzoq vaqt yashaydigan alpinistlar balandlik kasalliklari va hatto miyaning shishishi bilan kasallanishlari mumkin.

Everest tog'i va rsquos toqqa chiqish sanoati munozarali bo'lib qoldi. Cho'qqining mashhurligi oshgani sayin, alpinistlar o'lim zonasida ko'p vaqt o'tkazib, o'z cho'qqisiga chiqish imkoniyatini kutib o'tirishadi. Ko'p odamlar yig'ilish yaqinida ko'proq ifloslanishni boshladilar, chunki alpinistlar ko'pincha keraksiz narsalarni tog' bo'ylab tashlaydilar. Bundan tashqari, Sherpa xalqini alpinistlar ekspluatatsiya qilishgan va ularning an'anaviy turmush tarzi chet ellik alpinistlar tomonidan buzilgan. Sherpa qo'llanmalari, nisbatan kam maosh uchun, har qanday ish sohasida o'limning eng yuqori ko'rsatkichlariga duch kelishadi. Eng alamli tomoni shundaki, ko'plab alpinistlar yo'lda vafot etgan va tanalarini olib chiqish imkonsiz bo'lgani uchun, alpinistlar tez -tez murdaning yonidan o'tib, tog'ga ko'tarilishlari kerak.

Everest tog'i - Himoloy tog'larining eng balandi va mdashat 8,849 metr (29,032 fut) va mdashis Erning eng baland nuqtasi hisoblanadi.

National Geographic tasvirlar to'plamidan olingan, Barri Bishopning surati


Tarkibi

Yashil butslarning birinchi yozib olingan videoroligi 2001 yil 21 mayda frantsuz alpinisti Per Paperon tomonidan suratga olingan. Videoda "Yashil etiklar" chap tomonida, tepalikka qaragan holda tasvirlangan. Paperon ma'lumotlariga ko'ra, Sherpas unga olti oy oldin ko'tarilishga urinib ko'rgan xitoylik alpinistning jasadi ekanligini aytgan. [3]

Vaqt o'tishi bilan, jasad shimoliy yo'nalishdagi belgi sifatida ham, Devid Sharpning o'limi bilan bog'liqligi bilan ham tanildi. [4] 2014 yil may oyida Green Boots jasadi ko'zdan g'oyib bo'lgani, ehtimol olib tashlangani yoki ko'milgani haqida xabar berilgan edi [5], lekin 2015 [6] va 2017 yilda ko'rilgan. iqtibos kerak ]

Tsevang Paljor tahrirlash

Yashil etiklar odatda hind alpinisti Tsevang Paljor [7] bo'lib, u 1996 yilda o'zining partiyasi bilan yana ikki kishi yig'ilishga urinishganida yashil Koflach etiklarini kiygan edi, lekin uning jasadi uningniki bo'lishi mumkin edi. jamoa a'zosi Dorje Morup. 1996 yildagi Everest falokati sakkiz alpinistni o'ldirdi, ular orasida janubi -sharqiy yo'nalishdagi sarguzasht maslahatchilari va tog 'jinniliklari ekspeditsiyalaridan beshta alpinist va shimoli -sharqiy yo'nalishda uch kishi halok bo'ldi. Bu Hind-Tibet chegara politsiyasi (ITBP) Hindistondan kelgan alpinistlar edi. Ekspeditsiyani komendant Mohinder Singx boshqargan va Hindistonning sharqdan Everestga birinchi ko'tarilishi edi. [8]

1996 yil 10 mayda Subedar Tsevang Samanla, Lens Naik Dorje Morup va bosh konstebel Tsevang Palyor sammit yaqinida bo'ronga tushib qolishdi. Olti kishilik jamoadan uchtasi orqaga chekinishganda, Samanla, Morup va Paljor sammitga borishga qaror qilishdi. [9] Nepal vaqti bilan soat 15:45 da, uchta alpinist o'z ekspeditsiyasi rahbariga tepalikka etib kelishganini xabar qilishdi. Ular ibodat bayroqlari, xatalar va pitonlardan qurbonlik qoldirishdi. Bu erda etakchi Samanla diniy marosimlarga qo'shimcha vaqt ajratishga qaror qildi va qolgan ikkisiga pastga tushishni buyurdi.

Shundan keyin radio aloqasi yo'q edi. Quyidagi lagerlarga qaytib, jamoa a'zolari ikkinchi pog'onadan 8,570 metr balandlikda biroz yuqoriga qarab harakatlanayotganini ko'rishdi. Uch kishining hech biri 8,300 metr balandlikdagi lagerga qaytib kela olmadi.

Keyinchalik, Fukuokadan kelgan yapon alpinistlar guruhi yo'qolgan hind alpinistlarini ko'rganmi yoki yo'qmi, degan munozaralar yuzaga kelgan. Guruh Pekin vaqti bilan soat 06:15 da o'z qarorgohidan 8300 metr balandlikdan chiqib, 15:07 da cho'qqiga chiqdi. Yo'lda ular yo'lda boshqalarga duch kelishdi. Yo'qolgan hindulardan bexabar, ular kaput ostida ko'zoynak va kislorodli niqob kiygan boshqa odamlar Tayvandan kelgan toqqa chiquvchi partiyaning a'zolari ekanligiga ishonishgan. 15:30 da boshlangan tushish paytida, ular Ikkinchi qadamning tepasida noma'lum ob'ektni ko'rishgani haqida xabar berishdi. Birinchi qadamdan pastda, ular bir odamni mahkamlangan arqonda ko'rishgani haqida xabar berishdi. Shundan so'ng, alpinistlardan biri Shigekava yaqinda turgan noma'lum odam bilan salom almashdi. O'sha paytda ular C6 ga qaytish uchun etarli kislorodga ega edilar.

16:00 da Fukuoka partiyasi o'z guruhidagi hindistonliklardan uch erkak yo'qolganini aniqladi. [10] Ular qutqaruvga qo'shilishni taklif qilishdi, lekin rad etishdi. Yomon ob -havo tufayli bir kun kutishga majbur bo'lib, ular 13 -may kuni sammitga ikkinchi partiyani yuborishdi. Ular Birinchi qadam atrofida bir nechta jasadlarni ko'rishdi, lekin cho'qqiga chiqishda davom etishdi.

Dastlab, Fukuoka jamoasining harakatlariga nisbatan ba'zi tushunmovchiliklar va qattiq so'zlar bo'lgan, keyinchalik ularga oydinlik kiritildi. Reuters ma'lumotlariga ko'ra, hind ekspeditsiyasi yaponiyaliklar qidiruvga yordam berishga va'da berishgan, lekin buning o'rniga sammitga urinishgan. [11] Yaponiya jamoasi o'layotgan alpinistlarni tashlab ketishganini yoki yordam berishdan bosh tortganini rad etdi, bu da'vo Hind-Tibet chegara politsiyasi tomonidan qabul qilindi. [10] Hind alpinizm federatsiyasi rasmiysi, kapitan Kohli, ilgari yaponlarni qoralagan, keyinchalik yaponlar 10 may kuni hindular bilan uchrashgani haqida xabar bergan degan da'vosini rad etdi.

Dorje Morup tahrirlash

"Yashil etik" bosh konstabl Tsevang Paljorning jasadi ekanligiga ishonishsa -da, 1997 yilda "Shimoliy tizma orqali Komolungmaning Hindistonga ko'tarilishi" maqolasi, ekspeditsiya rahbarining o'rinbosari P. M. Das tomonidan chop etilgan. Himoloy jurnali, uning o'rniga Lens Naik Dorje Morupniki bo'lishi mumkinligi ehtimolini oshiradi. Dasning yozishicha, soat 19:30 da ikki alpinist bosh chiroqlari nuri tushayotganini payqagan, lekin ular tez orada ko'zdan g'oyib bo'lishgan. [12] Ertasi kuni, ekspeditsiyaning ikkinchi yig'ilish guruhining rahbari, ular birinchi va ikkinchi pog'onalar o'rtasida asta -sekin harakatlanayotgan Morup bilan uchrashdi. Dasning yozishicha, Morup "sovuqdan tishlagan qo'llariga qo'lqop kiyishdan bosh tortgan" va "langar joylarida xavfsizlik karabinasini echishda qiyinchiliklarga duch kelmoqda". [12] Dasning so'zlariga ko'ra, Yaponiya jamoasi uni arqonning navbatdagi chizig'iga o'tkazishda yordam bergan.

Yaponiyalik guruh Tsevang Samanlaning jasadini ikkinchi qadamdan keyin topdi. Qaytish chog'ida guruh Morup hali sekin harakat qilayotganini aniqladi. Morup 11 may kuni tushdan keyin vafot etgani taxmin qilinmoqda. Dasning aytishicha, Paljorning jasadi hech qachon topilmagan.

Ikkinchi ITBP guruhi Samanla va Morupning sammitdan qaytgan jasadlariga duch kelishdi. Das yozishicha, ular Morupni "o'z nasl -nasabi yaqinida, 6 -lager yaqinida, toshbo'ron boshpanasida yotgan holda", kiyim -kechaklari va ryukzaklari yonida uchratishgan. [12]

Yashil etiklar 21 -asr boshlarida Everestda qolgan 200 ga yaqin jasadlar qatoriga qo'shildi. [13] [14] "Yashil etiklar" atamasi Everest tiliga qachon kirgani noma'lum. Yillar davomida bu umumiy atamaga aylandi, chunki shimol tomondan qilingan barcha ekspeditsiyalar ohaktoshli g'or g'orida o'ralgan alpinistning jasadiga duch keldi. G'or 8,500 m balandlikda va kislorodli idishlar bilan qoplangan. Bu yo'ldagi birinchi qadamdan pastda.

"Uxlab yotgan go'zal" laqabini olgan yana bir yiqilgan alpinist - Frensis Arsentiev, 1998 yilda yig'ilishdan so'ng Everestdan muvaffaqiyatsiz tushish paytida vafot etgan. Uning jasadi u yiqilgan joyida qoldi va 2007 yilgacha, tantanali ravishda ko'zdan yashirilguncha ko'rinardi. [5]

Qo'shimcha jasadlar "Kamalak vodiysi" da joylashgan bo'lib, tepalikdan pastda, ochiq rangli alpinizm liboslarini kiygan jasadlar joylashgan. [15] Yana bir nomlangan jasad janubiy marshrutda taniqli mavqega ega bo'lgan, 1979 yilda yig'ilgan "nemis ayoli" laqabini olgan, lekin 8200 m balandlikda vafot etganida vafot etgan Gannelor Shmatzning jasadi. [16] U o'sha erda ko'p yillar qoldi, lekin oxir -oqibat tog'dan pastga urildi. [16]

2006 yilda britaniyalik alpinist Devid Sharp Alpinist Mark Inglis va uning partiyasi tomonidan Green Boots g'oridagi gipotermik holatda topilgan. Inglis, u ta'minlay olmagan Sharpga qanday yordam berish kerakligi haqida maslahat olish uchun radiodan keyin ko'tarilishni davom ettirdi. Sharp bir necha soatdan keyin qattiq sovuqdan vafot etdi. Taxminan o'ttizga yaqin boshqa alpinistlar o'sha kuni o'layotgan odamning yonidan o'tib ketishgan bo'lardi, uni ko'rganlar Sharpni "Yashil etiklar" deb xato qilishgan va shuning uchun unchalik e'tibor berishmagan. [13] [17]


'gorgeous ' qo'shnilari Gina Koladangelo Mett Xankok ishidan hayratda qolgani haqida gapirib berishdi

Quyoshga ergashing

Xizmatlar

& copyNews Group Gazetalar Limited Angliyada № 679215 Ro'yxatdan o'tgan ofis: London ko'prigi ko'chasi, 1, London, SE1 9GF. "Quyosh", "Quyosh", "Sun onlayn" - News Group Newspapers Limited kompaniyasining ro'yxatdan o'tgan savdo belgilari yoki savdo nomlari. Bu xizmat Maxfiylik va cookie -fayllar siyosatimizga muvofiq News Group gazetalari Limited kompaniyasining standart shartlari va shartlarida taqdim etiladi. Materiallarni qayta ishlab chiqarish litsenziyasi haqida bilish uchun bizning Syndication saytimizga tashrif buyuring. Bizning onlayn matbuot to'plamimizni ko'ring. Boshqa savollar uchun biz bilan bog'laning. Quyoshdagi barcha tarkibni ko'rish uchun sayt xaritasidan foydalaning. Sun veb -sayti Matbuot standartlari bo'yicha mustaqil tashkilot (IPSO) tomonidan tartibga solinadi.


Qanday qilib Gannelor Shmatz Everestning eng dahshatli o'limlaridan birini azoblagan

DW Xannelor Shmatz va uning eri Gerxard alpinistlar edi.

1979 yilda nemis alpinisti Gannelore Shmatz tarixda Everest va#8217s cho'qqisiga chiqqan to'rtinchi ayol bo'ldi. Shu bilan birga, uning 50 yoshli eri Gerxard o'zining cho'qqisiga chiqqan eng keksa odamga aylandi. Agar ikkalasi ham Shmattsiyaning boshiga tushgan fojia bilan, ularning o'limi bilan yakunlanmaganida, ajoyib yutuqlar bo'lardi.

Taqdirli Everest safaridan bir necha yillar oldin, Shmatzlar ishonchini 1973 yilda Erga sakkizinchi eng baland tog 'Manasluga muvaffaqiyatli ekspeditsiyasi ortidan ko'tarishgan. Katmandudagi 26781 futli ulkan kollej Everestdan atigi 2300 futga qisqa. Everest ekspeditsiyasiga tayyorgarlik ko'rish uchun ular 1979 yilgacha - Everest tog'idagi fojiali o'limlar ro'yxatiga kiritilgan yilgacha har yili yangi toqqa chiqdilar.

YouTube Gannelor Shmatzning muzlab qolgan jasadi.

Gerxard o'z xotinini ekspeditsiya materiallarini qidirish va tashish borasida daho deb ta'riflagan va u logistika va toqqa chiqishning texnik jihatlari uchun mas'ul bo'lganida. Tayyor uskunalar va boshqa oltita professional alpinist yonida, Shmatzlar 1979 yil iyul oyida Everestga yo'l olishdi.

"#8220" sariq guruhi va#8221 - 24606 futlik mintaqaviy balandlikdan o'tgandan so'ng, Shmatzlar Jeneva shpalidan o'tdilar. Ular 24 -sentabrda 26,200 fut balandlikdagi Janubiy Kol lageriga etib kelishdi va trekning oxirgi yuqori lagerini o'rnatdilar. Ammo bir kun davom etgan bo'ron ularni tog'dan tushishga majbur qildi.

Ikkinchi ko'tarilish paytida er -xotin ajralishdi - ularning ajralishi abadiy bo'lishini hech o'ylamadilar. Gerxard guruhi birinchi bo'lib Janubiy Kolorga qaytib keldi va Everest cho'qqisiga sayohatni boshladi. Garxard va uning guruhi 1 -oktabr kuni cho'qqiga chiqqan bo'lsalar ham, ob -havo sharoitining yomonlashuvi tufayli tezda orqaga chekinishga majbur bo'lishdi.

Bu orada tushayotgan guruh Xannelor Shmatz va uning jamoasini davom etish juda xavfli ekanligini ogohlantirdi. Gerxardning eslatmalarida uning xotini "yomon" va "8221" deb ta'riflangan va u ertasi kuni ertalab soat 5 da oldinga siljigan. Gerxard bazaviy lagerga soat 18 da qaytib kelganida, uning rafiqasi tepaga ko'tarilgani haqida radio orqali ogohlantirildi.

Maurus Loeffel/Flikr Shmatz - Everestda vafot etgan birinchi ayol.

Afsuski, Xannelor va amerikalik alpinist Rey Genet tushish paytida charchoqni engishdi. Hamrohlari sherpalar panoh topmasliklari haqida ogohlantirishlariga qaramay, ular lager qurib, boshpana topdilar. Ammo bu boshpana O'lim zonasida qurilgan va aytishga hojat yo'q, bu hudud o'z nomiga mos keladi.

Genet gipotermiyadan vafot etdi, Gannelor va ikkita sherpani tushkunlikka tushishga urinishga undadi. Afsuski, uning jasadi allaqachon yopila boshlagan edi. Uning oxirgi so'zlari oddiygina "suv" va "8230 suv" edi. ” Ortiqcha energiya qolmay o'tirgach, u sumkasiga yiqilib o'ldi.

Xannelor Shmatz Everestda xiyonatkor muhitda vafot etgan birinchi ayol va birinchi nemis fuqarosi edi. U Everestda halok bo'lgan va uning muzlatilgan ogohlantirish belgilariga aylangan yuzlab boshqa alpinistlarga qo'shildi. Bu kabi Everest tog'lari yillar davomida boshqa alpinistlar uchun yo'lboshi bo'lib xizmat qilgan. Ammo Gannelor Shmatzga kelganda, shamol oxir -oqibat uning muzlab qolgan jasadini Kangshung yuzidan tashladi, boshqa hech qachon ko'rilmadi.


QO'RQIB QO'RISh

& quotBiz uning yo'qolganidan qattiq qayg'uramiz, chunki u hali ko'p sarguzashtlarni va amalga oshirishni orzu qilgan edi.

& quot; U bilan biron bir tarzda uchrashgan har bir kishi, uning hayotiga qilgan ijobiy ta'sirini doimo eslab turadi.

& quot; Robin - bu juda yaxshi ko'riladigan va sevadigan o'g'il, aka, sherik, amaki va do'st. & quot

Nepal haddan ziyod qo'rquvdan keyin berilgan ruxsatnomalar sonidan qattiq norozi.

Bu bahor mavsumi uchun kamida 381 ta ruxsatnoma berilgan - har birining narxi 8,600 funt.

56 yoshli, Irlandiyaning Golvay shahrida, Tibet (Shimoliy) tomondan juma kuni ertalab olti kishilik guruh tarkibida uchta ekspert sherpa bilan kelgan.


Olympus tog'idagi o'limlar

Borgna Brunner tomonidan

Ser Edmund Xillari Everest bazasida Sherpa alpinisti Tenzing Norgay bilan suratga tushmoqda.

Tog'da o'lgan alpinistlar ko'pincha halok bo'ladigan joyda qoladilar, chunki balandlik ta'siri jasadlarni olib chiqib ketishni deyarli imkonsiz qiladi. Everestga ko'tarilganlar eski chodirlar va asbob -uskunalar qoldiqlari, bo'sh kislorod qutilari va muzlatilgan murdalar bilan to'la muzli qabristondan o'tadilar.

Tegishli havolalar

1852 yilda Hindistonda o'tkazilgan Buyuk Trigonometrik Tadqiqot shuni ko'rsatdiki, Everest tog'i, shu paytgacha noma'lum bo'lgan Himoloy cho'qqisi, dunyodagi eng baland tog 'sifatida aniqlangan. Bu e'lon xalqaro tasavvurni qamrab oldi va tez orada "dunyo tomi" cho'qqisiga chiqish g'oyasi geografik yutuq sifatida qabul qilindi. Biroq, Everestga ko'tarilishga urinishlar 1921 yilgacha, taqiqlangan Tibet qirolligi o'z chegaralarini begonalarga ochgan paytgacha boshlana olmadi.

Mallori va Irvine

1924 yil 8 -iyun kuni Britaniya ekspeditsiyasining ikki a'zosi - Jorj Mallori va Endryu Irvin sammitga urinishdi. Matbuotga bergan javobi bilan mashhurmi? "Chunki u erda"? Nima uchun u Everestga ko'tarilishni xohlaganini so'rashganida, Mallori cho'qqiga chiqishda ikki marta muvaffaqiyatsiz bo'lgan. Ikki kishi oxirgi marta "kuchli" ketayotganini payqab qolishdi, toki bulutlar Everest atrofida abadiy aylanib yurdi. Keyin ular g'oyib bo'lishdi.

Mallorining jasadi yana 75 yil, 1999 yil may oyida topilmadi. Uning jasadida hech qanday dalil topilmadi, masalan sammitning fotosuratlari bo'lgan kamera yoki sammitga kelish vaqtini yozib olgan kundalik yozuv? Bu ikki Everest kashshofi tog 'ularni o'ldirishidan oldin cho'qqiga chiqqanmi yoki yo'qmi.

Xillari va Tenzing

O'ttiz yil davomida yana o'nta ekspeditsiya Everestni zabt eta olmadi, 13 kishi hayotdan ko'z yumdi. Keyin, 1953 yil 29 mayda, Yangi Zelandiya asalarichisi Edmund Xillari va mashhur Sherpa alpinisti Tenzing Norgay dunyo tomiga birinchi bo'lib etib kelishdi. Ularning ko'tarilishi Nepal tomondan qilingan, u 1950 yilda Xitoy bosib olgan Tibet o'z chegaralarini yopib qo'ygan paytda chet elliklarga qo'yilgan cheklovlarni engillashtirgan.

Bir kunning o'zida butun dunyoga mashhur bo'lgan Xillari Britaniya imperiyasining qahramoniga aylandi? Bu xabar Yelizaveta II ning tojini taxtga qo'yish vaqtida Londonga yetib keldimi?

O'lim zonasiga

Garchi toqqa chiqish texnik jihatdan qiyin bo'lgan tog'lardan biri deb hisoblanmasa ham (K2, dunyodagi ikkinchi eng baland tog ') ancha qiyin), Everestning xavfiga qor ko'chkisi, burilishlar, shiddatli shamollar 125 m / s gacha, to'satdan bo'ronlar, 40 F pastda harorat kiradi. nol va kislorod etishmasligi. "O'lim zonasida", 25000 futdan yuqori, havo dengiz sathidan kislorodning atigi uchdan bir qismini ushlab turadi, bu esa gipotermiya, muzlash, o'pkaning yuqori shishishi (o'pka suyuqlik bilan o'lik holda to'ldiriladi) va yuqori miya serebral ehtimolini oshiradi. shish (kislorodsiz och miyaning shishishi).

Hatto kislorodli kislorod bilan nafas olganda ham, alpinistlar haddan tashqari charchashni, fikrlash va muvofiqlashtirishning buzilishini, bosh og'rig'i, ko'ngil aynishi, ikki tomonlama ko'rish va ba'zida gallyutsinatsiyalarni boshdan kechirishadi. Ekspeditsiyalar bir necha oy iqlimlashadi va odatda Everestga faqat may va oktyabr oylarida borishadi, qishda qor va yozgi mussonlardan saqlanishadi.

Xillari va Tenzingning Everestga ko'tarilishidan so'ng, boshqa rekordlar buzildi, shu jumladan, ayolning birinchi ko'tarilishi, birinchi yakkaxon ko'tarilish, bir marshrutni boshqasidan o'tgan va boshqasidan pastga, chang'ida birinchi tushish.

Messner va Xabeler

Biroq, bu rekordlarning hech biri keyingi haqiqiy bosqich bilan taqqoslanmagan: qo'shimcha kislorodsiz Everestga chiqish. Baland kisloroddan foydalanishni "sportsiz" deb atagan Malloriga kelganda, alpinistlar boshqa alternativa yo'qligini aniqladilar.

Ammo 1978 yil 8 -mayda ikkita tirollik alpinist - Reinxold Messner va Piter Xabeler imkonsiz narsaga erishdilar. Messner, u bilan Everestga qo'shimcha kislorodsiz ko'tariladimi yoki yo'qmi, hech narsa bo'lmaydi deb qaror qildi. Sammitda u o'zini "faqat tor nafas oladigan o'pkadan boshqa narsa emas", deb ta'riflagan.

Ajablanarlisi shundaki, ba'zilar qo'shimcha kislorodsiz toqqa chiqishning to'g'riligi to'g'risida bahslashishdi. Ikki yil o'tgach, Messner barcha shubhalarni yo'q qildi, 1980 yil 20 -avgustda u yana kislorodsiz Everestga ko'tarildi, bu safar yakkaxon (boshqa Everest birinchi). Kislorodsiz toqqa chiqish hozirda toqqa chiqayotgan elita orasida shov -shuvga aylandi va 1996 yilga kelib 60 dan ortiq erkaklar va ayollar o'zlarining nafas olayotgan o'pkalariga tayanib yuqori cho'qqilarni zabt etishdi.

Muzli qabriston

1921 yildan 2014 yilgacha Everestga saksondan ortiq mamlakatdan 5000 dan ortiq odam ko'tarilgan. Kamida 260 kishi hayotdan ko'z yumdi, bu esa har 20 kishidan bittasi tirik qolmaslikka olib keladi.

2014 yil aprel oyida 16 Sherpa gidlari qor ko'chishi oqibatida halok bo'ldi. Ular 19000 fut balandlikdagi alpinistlar uchun arqonlarni mahkamlashayotgan edi. Bu Everestdagi eng halokatli halokat edi. Voqea sodir bo'lganidan so'ng, Nepal hukumatining fojia yuzasidan javob berishidan norozi bo'lgan o'nlab Sherpa gidlari ishdan ketishdi. Hukumat ko'chkida halok bo'lgan gidlarning oilalariga 400 dollar atrofida yordam va'da qilgan. Sherpa yo'riqchilari yordam haqidan g'azablanib, buni haqorat deb atashdi.

O'lganlar tez -tez halok bo'ladigan joyda qoladilar, chunki balandlik ta'siridan jasadlarni tog'dan tortib olish deyarli mumkin emas. Everestga ko'tarilganlar eski chodirlar va asbob -uskunalar qoldiqlari, bo'sh kislorod qutilari va muzlatilgan jasadlar bilan to'la muzli qabristondan o'tadilar.

So'nggi bir necha yil ichida Everestga ommaviy axborot vositalariga kirish imkoni ko'paydi: tog'dan Internetdan to'g'ridan -to'g'ri hisobotlar yuborildi (quyosh energiyasidan foydalangan holda), Imax filmining ekipaji toqqa chiqishni va Jon Krakauerning Everestga ko'tarilish haqidagi bestseller hisobotini, Yupqa havoga, tanishtirdi cwm, kol, sardor, qisqa arqon, va Hillari qadam umumiy Amerikaning so'z boyligiga.

Bulutlar ustidagi xudolar va insonlar

Oxirgi ommaviy axborot vositalarining e'tiborini tortishining sabablaridan biri, ilgari Messner va Xillari kabi alpinist xudolari bilan cheklangan Olimp tog'iga ko'tarilishning oddiy odamlaridir. Endi Everestning tijoratlashtirilishi haqida munozaralarni olib boradigan, tog'ga boshqariladigan sayohatlar bor. Patologlar va pochta xodimlari endi buyuk alpinistlarning izidan borishlari mumkin. Xillari kabi puristlar tog'ga hurmat yo'qligidan achinishadi va yosh turklar, agar ular yaxshi jismoniy shaklga ega bo'lsalar va 65000 dollari bo'lsa, deyarli hamma odamlarni toqqa chiqara olishadi.

OAV e'tiborining yana bir sababi - inson hayotining dahshatli isrofgarchiligi. 1996 yil may oyida sakkiz kishi tog'dagi eng katta falokatda hayotdan ko'z yumdi, biroq bir necha hafta o'tgach, ular toqqa chiqishga urinishlariga to'sqinlik qilmadilar, natijada yana to'rt kishi halok bo'ldi. Yil uchun jami o'n besh edi. Alpinistlar soni oshgani sayin, qurbonlar soni ham oshib bormoqda, Everest jahon darajasidagi alpinistlarni ham, yangi sarguzashtchilarni ham tushirdi.

Shuhratparast alpinistlar Everest cho'qqisiga chiqishga qaror qilganlarida, ularning axloqi va shaxsiy shon-shuhratga intilishlari tanqidga uchradi. 2006 yilda 40 dan ortiq alpinist cho'qqiga chiqib ketayotgan britaniyalik alpinistdan o'tib ketgan deb ishonilgan edi, lekin hech kim unga yordam bermagan. To'g'ri, Everestning o'lim zonasida og'ir kasal yoki jarohatlangan alpinistga yordam berish o'z hayotiga katta xavf tug'dirishi mumkin. Tog'da hech qachon bo'lmasligi kerak bo'lgan mas'uliyatsiz va tayyorgarlik ko'rmagan odamlarni qutqarish uchun alpinistlar Everestga ko'tarilish orzularini qurbon qilishga majbur bo'lganlarida, bu adolatsizlikdir. Lekin kimdir nima sababdan bo'lishidan qat'i nazar, boshqasini o'limga qoldirganini bilib, qanday qilib kechasi uxlab yotganini o'ylaydi. Hillari voqea haqida aytganidek, "Menimcha, Everest tog'iga chiqishga bo'lgan munosabat umuman qo'rqinchli bo'lib qoldi. Odamlar faqat yuqori cho'qqilarni zabt etishni xohlaydilar. Ular qayg'uga tushgan boshqa hech kimga ko'nmaydi".


Everest (2015)

Filmda bo'lgani kabi, Rob Xoll ham rafiqasi bilan Xelen Uilton tomonidan tog'dan taxminan 8000 fut pastda joylashgan yo'ldoshli aloqa orqali radio orqali gaplashdi. U bo'ronli tunni Everestning 29,029 fut cho'qqisidan taxminan 400 fut pastda, balandlikda o'tkazdi. Kislorodsiz, shafqatsiz va sovuq havoda yolg'iz qolgan Xoll o'lishini tushundi. Kabi Everest Haqiqiy voqea ularning tug'ilmagan chaqalog'iga "Sara" deb ism qo'ygandan so'ng, u rafiqasi Janga: "Men seni yaxshi ko'raman. Yaxshi uxla, sevgilim. Iltimos, ko'p tashvishlanma", deb tasdiqlagan. Bu Xolldan oxirgi marta eshitganlar edi. -TIME.com

Qaysi hisoblar Everest filmga asoslanganmi?

1996 yil Everest tog'idagi falokat paytida qancha odam halok bo'ldi?

1996 yil 10-11 may kunlari sodir bo'lgan Everest tog'idagi falokat paytida sakkiz kishi halok bo'ldi. Halok bo'lganlar orasida Skott Fischer, Rob Xoll, Endi Xarris, Dag Xansen, Yasuko Namba, Tsevang Samanla, Dorje Morup va Tsevang Paljor bor. Aslida tekshirish Everest Filmda biz "yashil butsalar" nomli noma'lum murdani bilib oldik (quyida rasmda), u odatda Tservang Paljor, Everest tog'ida halok bo'lgan sakkiz kishidan biri. Paljor Hind-Tibet chegara politsiyasida konstable bo'lgan va uch kishilik ekspeditsiyaning bir qismi bo'lib, shimoliy-sharqiy yo'nalishdan Everest cho'qqisiga chiqqan birinchi hind jamoasi bo'lishga harakat qilgan. U 1996 yilda jamoasi yig'in yakunlagan kuni yashil Koflach etiklarini kiyib olgan edi.

Everestning o'lim zonasi nima?

"O'lim zonasi" - bu umumiy atama bo'lib, tog'ning 8000 metrdan yoki 26000 futdan yuqori balandligini tavsiflash uchun ishlatiladi, bu erda inson tanasi endi iqlimlasha olmaydi va o'lishni boshlaydi. Qancha mashg'ulot o'tkazmasin, qo'shimcha kislorodsiz odam o'lim zonasida taxminan 48 soatdan ko'proq vaqt o'tkaza olmaydi, bu mintaqa dunyoning 14 tog'ida, shu jumladan Everestda. Kislorod darajasi dengiz sathidagi qiymatning atigi uchdan bir qismini tashkil qiladi, bu shuni anglatadiki, inson tanasi kislorod ta'minotini nafas olishdan ko'ra tezroq tugatadi. Ruhiy va jismoniy holatlar ta'sir qiladi, alpinistlar gallyutsinatsiyalar, tana funktsiyalarining yomonlashuvi, ongni yo'qotishi, asta -sekin bo'g'ilish hissi va nihoyat o'limga olib keladi. -Gizmodo.com

Everestda qancha jasad qolgan?

Tadqiqot paytida Everest haqiqiy hikoya, biz bugun Everestda 150 dan ortiq jasad qolganini bilib oldik. Ularning deyarli barchasi o'lim zonasida joylashgan bo'lib, bu erda og'ir sharoitlar jasadlarni o'z joniga qasd qilishga urinishga olib keladi. Nepallik politsiya inspektori va Sherpa 1984 yilda Gannelor Shmatzning jasadini qayta tiklashga urinishganida, yiqilib tushganlarida, bu saboqni juda qiyin o'rgandilar. Gannelor 1979 yilda charchoqdan vafot etdi, u IV lagerdan atigi yuz metr narida edi. Bir necha yillar davomida janubiy yo'lni egallagan alpinistlar Xannelorning jasadini ryukzakka tik holatda o'tirganini, ko'zlari ochilib, jigarrang sochlari shamolda esayotganini ko'rishardi. 90 -yillarning oxirida, qishning kuchli shamollari Gannelorning qoldiqlarini Kangshung yuzidan pastga va pastga olib ketdi. -Maqollar.ca

Bu halok bo'lgan alpinistlarning ba'zilari burilishlarda abadiy yo'qolgan yoki tog'dan bo'sh joyga uchib ketishgan bo'lsa -da, ko'pchilik hali mumiyalangan va muzlab qolgan. Cho'qqining pastida joylashgan joylardan biri, hali ham rang -barang toqqa chiqadigan ko'ylagi bilan o'ralgan jasadlar soni tufayli Rainbow Valley deb nomlandi. -Gizmodo.com

Bek Weathers zinapoyadan o'tayotganda deyarli yiqilib tushdimi?

Ha, lekin Everest Film vaziyatni biroz tasvirlaydi. Filmda Josh Brolinning obrazi yaqin atrofda qor ko'chishi paytida zinapoyaga tushib ketadi. U o'z hayotini saqlab qolganda, Rob Xoll (Jeyson Klark) uni qutqarish uchun chiqadi. Jon Krakauer, muallifi Yupqa havoga, oddiygina aytganda, Bek Weathers ham, Yasuko Namba ham bir necha marotaba "zinapoyadan yiqilib tushish xavfi ostida edi". Ob -havoning o'zi yozishicha, Xumbu muzlashining xavfli zinapoyalarida harakatlanish "muz mashinasi tagida qolgan chumoli" ga o'xshaydi.O'lganlar uchun chap). Haqiqiy alpinistlarning Xumbu muzliklari zinapoyasidan o'tayotganini tomosha qiling.

Bek Weathers (filmda Josh Brolin tomonidan tasvirlangan) haqiqatan ham o'lganmi?

Ha, ikki marta. Dallas patologi Bek Weathers uchun birinchi navbatda hamma narsa noto'g'ri ketdi, chunki yuqori balandlik va ultrabinafsha nurlanish ta'sirining ta'siri uning ko'zlarini ko'r qilib qo'ydi, ular yaqinda radial keratotomiya operatsiyasi (LASIK prekursori) tomonidan o'zgartirilgan edi. U cho'qqiga ko'tarilish o'rniga, oxir -oqibat pastga tushishga qaror qildi va bo'ronda kuchsizlanib qoldi. Anatoliy Boukreev keyinroq yordamga keldi, lekin ob -havo va yaponiyalik alpinist Yasuko Namba hushidan ketishdi va ularni qutqarish imkoni yo'q edi. Ular o'limga qoldirildi. Tong otganda, Styuart Xatchison va ikkita Sherpa Ob -havo va boshqa alpinist Yasuko Namba maqomini qayta baholash uchun kelishdi. Ular ikkalasi ham o'limga yaqin degan xulosaga kelishdi va nasldan omon qolmasligiga ishonib, ularni ortda qoldirishga qaror qilishdi.

"Men qorda uyg'onib ketdim, ko'zlarimni ochdim va to'g'ridan -to'g'ri qarshimda sevilmagan o'ng qo'lim bor edi, aniq o'lik edi", - eslaydi ob -havo. "It looked like a marble sculpture of a hand. I hit it on the ice and realized that so much of my tissue was dead, I wasn't feeling any pain. That had the marvelous effect of focusing my attention. I had an innate awareness that if the cavalry was going to come rescue me they would already have been there. If I didn't stand up, I realized, I was going to spend eternity on that spot." Like in the movie, Weathers thought of his family for motivation.

Weathers made his way to Camp IV. When he arrived his hands were frozen solid and looked like a cadaver's (pictured below). His cheeks and nose where black and resembled solid ash. However, he was alive. Following his evacuation, his right arm was amputated halfway between the wrist and the elbow. His thumb and all four fingers on his left hand were removed, in addition to parts of both his feet. His nose was amputated and a new nose was grown on his forehead, which incorporated tissue from his ear. -TIME.com

What is the temperature on top of Mount Everest?

Climbers typically make their ascent to Everest's 29,029 ft summit during a two-week window in May when conditions are at their best. Then, the temperature around the summit of Everest can rise to an average of -4 degrees Fahrenheit, compared to an average of -31 degrees Fahrenheit during months when the winds pick up.

Mt. Everest is so high that the summit actually protrudes into the stratosphere, where jet streams create 100+ mph winds during most months and temperatures can plummet as low as -76 degrees Fahrenheit. The winds alone can easily send climbers hurtling off the mountain to their deaths. In February 2004, a record wind speed of 175 mph was recorded at the summit. By comparison, a Category 5 hurricane has sustained wind speeds greater than 157 mph. -PopularMechanics.com

Why were there so many climbers at the summit on the day of the Everest disaster?

As stated above, there is only a short two-week window each year in May when climbing conditions are at their best. In 1996, there was an unusually late and heavy snow pack, which had kept any yaks from reaching Base Camp, causing a multitude of climbers to make their ascent just after the yaks were able to get the supplies to the camp. This, coupled with the growing commercialization of Everest expeditions, resulted in some 33 climbers attempting to summit Everest on May 10, 1996, creating bottlenecks at the Hillary Step, the last hurdle before reaching the top (see footage of real climbers conquering the Hillary Step and reaching the top). These bottlenecks were worsened by the fact that the Sherpas and guides had not yet placed a fixed line, causing the climbers to have to wait for roughly an hour while the ropes were installed. This happened at both the Hillary Step and further down near the Balcony. As a result, many of the climbers did not reach the summit by the 2 pm turnaround time, the last safe time to make it back to Camp IV before nightfall. -Into Thin Air

Why didn't the Sherpas place the fixed lines ahead of time to shave hours off the climb?

A Sherpa from Rob Hall's team and another from Scott Fischer's team were supposed to head out early to attach ropes into the rock and ice to help the climbers quickly traverse the most difficult sections. However, Scott Fischer's Sherpa, Lopsang Jangbu, never showed up, and Rob Hall's Sherpa refused to work alone. Lopsang was busy towing journalist and socialite Sandy Pittman via short-rope. Jon Krakauer, fellow climber and author of Into Thin Air, says that it was "hugely important" to Scott Fischer that Sandy make it to the top. "You can't buy that kind of advertising," says Krakauer. -Dateline

Did Beck Weathers' wife Peach really make calls to find a helicopter to fly up Everest and rescue her husband?

Ha. Like in the Everest movie, the true story reveals that Peach Weathers was instrumental in organizing her husband's helicopter rescue. She enlisted the help of her friends and fellow moms, who began calling everyone they could think of. They contacted U.S. Senator Kay Bailey Hutchison from Texas and Tom Daschle, the Democratic Senate minority leader. Daschle encouraged the State Department to act, and they reached out to David Schensted at the embassy in Kathmandu. After Schensted was turned down by several pilots, a Nepalese woman he worked with recommended Lieutenant Colonel Madan Khatri Chhetri, a Nepalese Army pilot who she suspected might accept the challenge, and he did. -DMagazine.com

Was the helicopter rescue of Beck Weathers the highest ever completed?

At the time in 1996, the helicopter rescue of Beck Weathers and Taiwanese climber Makulu Gau from above Everest's Icefall at 19,860 feet by Nepalese Lt. Col. Madan Khatri Chhetri was the highest rescue ever completed, and it also set the record for the highest helicopter landing (NationalGeographic.com). The climbers scrambled to clear a landing zone, using Kool-Aid to mark an 'X' in the snow (they use Gatorade in the movie). The helicopter circled and eventually landed, but unlike what is shown in the movie, Weathers gave up his spot for Makulu Gau, who was in worse condition. "It seemed like the thing to do at the time," says Weathers. "When that helicopter took off with Makulu in it though I must tell you my spirits were down around by my feet, because I didn't think he was coming back." Fortunately, the pilot was able to return for Weathers after dropping off Gau.

In fact-checking the Everest movie, we learned that in 2010 three climbers from a Spanish expedition were rescued via a long line from an elevation of 22,900 feet on Nepal's Mount Annapurna (Outside Online). The record for the highest helicopter landing was shattered in 2005 when test pilot Didier Delsalle landed his turbo engine AS350 B3 helicopter on the top of Mount Everest (NationalGeographic.com).

During our investigation into the Everest movie true story, we learned that the Sherpa are an ethnic group of people from the most mountainous area of Nepal, including Mt. Everest. They are highly experienced mountaineers who are very knowledgeable of their local terrain. The term Sherpa is commonly used by foreigners to refer to any guide, climbing assistant or porter paid to accompany climbers on mountaineering pursuits in the Himalayas. Sherpas are basically the keepers of the mountain and are instrumental in maintaining the routes to the top. The Sherpas' unique climbing ability is due in part to the fact that they have adapted genetically to living at high altitudes. 11 real-life Sherpas were cast in the Everest movie.

Did a confused Andy Harris mistakenly tell Rob Hall that all of the oxygen tanks were empty?

Ha. While in the throes of hypoxic dementia, Andy Harris got on the radio to tell Rob Hall that he was at the oxygen cache on the South Summit but all of the tanks were empty. Rob was high on the summit ridge trying to help Doug Hansen, who was in desperate need of oxygen. Andy was confused and in bad shape himself, not realizing that there were actually two full tanks at the South Summit cache. Mike Groom tried to radio Rob to correct Andy's mistake, but his radio was malfunctioning. -Into Thin Air

Did Andy Harris walk off the South Summit to his death?

Yes, it is believed that Andy Harris (portrayed by Martin Henderson in the Everest movie) walked off the South Summit during the storm when he was disoriented from the effects of high-altitude cerebral edema (HACE). He apparently disappeared in the South Summit area near where his ice axe was found and where Doug Hansen disappeared as well. It is possible that Andy had decided to climb back up in an attempt to assist Rob Hall with an ailing Doug Hansen. The bodies of Andy Harris and Doug Hansen have not been found to date. -A Day to Die For

HACE occurs when the body fails to acclimatize at high altitudes, such as in Everest's Death Zone. Disorientation, nausea, lethargy and eventually coma and death can occur in climbers suffering from HACE.

What exactly led to Scott Fischer's death?

Scott Fischer's personal friend and client Dale Kruse was suffering from altitude sickness and possible HACE at Camp I (19,898 ft). Fischer decided to climb down from Camp II (21,325 ft) to take Kruse back to Base Camp (17,500 ft) for treatment. Fischer made the 4,000-foot climb the next morning to rejoin his team at Camp II. He did not get adequate rest time before departing for Camp III (24,500 ft) with his team the next day. His ascent to Camp III was slow and when the more than 50 climbers left for Camp IV (25,938 ft) on the morning of May 9, Fischer was one of the last to depart.

Setting out for the summit (29,029 ft) just before midnight, Scott Fischer didn't arrive there until 3:30 pm, well past the 2 pm cutoff time to safely make it back to Camp IV before dark. He radioed Base Camp and told them he was weary and felt sick. He descended in the blizzard to just above the Balcony (27,559 ft), telling Lopsang Jangbu Sherpa to descend without him and to send Anatoli Boukreev up to help. Suffering from hypoxia (lack of oxygen) and most likely cerebral edema as well, Scott Fischer sat down in the route, never to get up again. When the storm subsided on May 11, two Sherpas arrived to help but it was too late. His breathing was shallow and he was not responding. They placed an oxygen mask over his face and left him be. He died before Anatoli Boukreev reached him. Boukreev lashed Fischer's backpack over his face and moved his friend's body off the climbing route (The Climb). It still remains on the mountain.

Is Mount Everest the world's tallest mountain?

Mount Everest is the world's tallest mountain above sea level, rising 29,029 ft (this value can vary based on measuring criteria). However, Mauna Kea, a dormant volcano on the Big Island of Hawaii, is the world's tallest mountain when measured from its base below sea level, rising approximately 33,474 ft from the Pacific Ocean floor.

Why did journalist Jon Krakauer want to climb Mt. Everest?

"I climbed for the wrong reasons," says Jon Krakauer, author of Into Thin Air. "I'd always wanted to do it as a kid. . The excuse was, I was broke and I was a freelance journalist and I was getting paid well, but really, I would have paid money to go on that trip. I wanted to climb Everest, because it's Everest. I wasn't used to being guided. To be guided, you advocate your own decision making, your own judgement, you listen to what the captain of the ship orders you to do and you have to do it. The system doesn't work otherwise." Krakauer also says that it made him really uncomfortable that Sherpas were taking the risk for him. "Everest is a really different mountain than anything else," he adds. -HuffPostLive Jon Krakauer Interview

Did Rob Hall steal journalist Jon Krakauer from Scott Fischer?

Was Rob Hall's body found by members of the IMAX expedition?

Ha, Everest true story reveals that mountaineers from the IMAX expedition discovered Rob Hall's body on their way to the summit on May 23, 1996, roughly 12 days after Hall's death from exposure. The IMAX team, which included Ed Viesturs and David Breashears, were filming the 1998 documentary Everest. The film had been in production at the time of the disaster, but shooting was postponed as the IMAX team followed Ed Viesturs up the mountain to help the stranded climbers, including Beck Weathers. The IMAX team also came across Scott Fischer's body.

Have there been worse Everest disasters in the years since 1996?

Ha. When fact-checking Everest , we learned that two more recent disasters on the mountain have taken more lives. The 1996 Everest disaster claimed eight lives and was the deadliest day in Everest's recorded history until 2014, when an avalanche resulted in the deaths of 16 Nepalese guides. That toll was topped in 2015 when the Nepal earthquake caused avalanches on Everest that led to 18 deaths.

Have any other movies been made about the 1996 Mount Everest disaster?

Ha. The 1997 made-for-TV movie Into Thin Air: Death on Everest was also based on the book Into Thin Air by Jon Krakauer, a journalist/mountaineer who was caught in the middle of the 1996 Mount Everest disaster while on assignment for Outside jurnal. Krakauer was part of Rob Hall's Adventure Consultants' expedition.

Further explore the Everest true story via the videos below, including an interview with Jon Krakauer in which he says climbing Everest was the biggest mistake of his life.


The Stories About the Dead Bodies

Green boots- sadly green boots has never officially been identified but he is believed to be Tsewang Paljor, an Indian climber who died on Everest in 1996. The term Green Boots originated from the green Koflach mountaineering boots on his feet.

David Sharp was attempting to summit Everest on his own. He had stopped to rest in Green Boots’ cave, as so many had done before him. Over the course of several hours, he froze to death, his body stuck in a huddled position. at least 40 people passed by Sharp that day and saw that we was in distress. Not one of them stopped.

George Mallory’s corpse was found 75 years after his 1924 death. Mallory had attempted to be the first person to climb Everest, but he disappeared before anyone found out if he had achieved his goal. His body was found in 1999, his upper torso, half of his legs, and his left arm almost perfectly preserved

Hannelore Schmatz she came the first german and first woman to perish on the mountain. Schmatz had actually reached her goal of summiting the mountain, before ultimately succumbing to exhaustion on the way down. Despite her Sherpa’s warning, she set up camp within the death zone.

Francys Arsentiev became the first woman from the United States to reach the summit of Mount Everest without the aid of bottled oxygen, on May 22, 1998. She then died during the descent. n the morning of May 23, Francys Arsentiev was encountered by an Uzbek team who were climbing the final few hundred meters to the summit. She appeared to be half-conscious, affected by oxygen deprivation and frostbite. As she was unable to move on her own, they attended to her with oxygen and carried her down as far as they could, until, depleted of their own oxygen, they became too tired to continue the effort. Francys was still alive.


Videoni tomosha qiling: СИЗ БУНИ БИЛМАГАНСИЗУЛИКЛАРНИ К,АБИРДАН КАВЛАБ ОЛИШДИTOPFAKT (Yanvar 2022).